Snow leopards: the smokey ghosts living on the roof of the world. This was an elusive felid that was one of our holy grails but the real question was where to look for them. The Himalayas with altitudes of over 4000m seemed daunting so after much research, Mongolia looked like a feasible option. Rolling mountains below 2000m and a good chance to see this cat, the deal was done. But once we were there, it wasn't a piece of cake.